After arriving to Niijima Island in Japan, Cheyne Magnusson, the crew and myself want to find waves right away. We find this beach with a cool monument, artsy stairs to the sand, and suck-up beach break only about 5 min from our hotel. Not the best kind of surf for Tina but great for Cheyne ripping. Which he does until a wave snaps the nose of his board on the sand. I still put the camera down and went for my first Japanese surf on Cheyne's broken board though. Super fun! After the surf went to re-habilitate in these natural hot springs right next to the ocean. As Cheyne says, "They look like they're from a level in Street Fighter II."
Friday, May 29, 2009
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